Lately, #RosemaryOil is the talk of #HairTok. It’s clocked more than 2.3 billion views on TikTok, which is buzzing about the treatment’s possible ability to tackle thinning hair. But using rosemary oil to achieve a fuller, more lustrous mane isn’t a new concept. Even though it’s just catching on in North America, the ingredient has been used for decades in Mediterranean cultures, among others, to help boost hair volume.
Roughly 40 per cent of women will experience some form of hair thinning by the age of 50, according to the Canadian Dermatology Association. Genetics, diet, hormones, stress and general health are just a few of the culprits.
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“Hair thinning can happen for many reasons and can look different depending on the issue,” says Caroline Ruggiero, trichologist (a.k.a. a hair and scalp health specialist) and COO of Truly You Hair and Scalp Clinic in Mississauga, Ont.
She explains that pattern hair loss (a.k.a. androgenetic alopecia), results in hair thinning in areas like the front hairline and the crown, while excessive shedding (telogen effluvium) is another form of hair loss that can happen due to hormonal changes, medications and stress. “There’s also the less common category of autoimmune hair loss,” says Ruggiero. “Disorders like alopecia areata fall into this category where we see patches of hair fall rapidly.”
While most people are familiar with the signs of male pattern hair loss, hair thinning in females often presents differently, says Dr. Christina Han, dermatologist, XYON medical director and director of dermatology at Vancouver’s False Creek Dermatology. Thinning hair at the crown of the head, a widening of the hair part or a more visible scalp are telltale signs for women. You might see a thinner, less dense ponytail and more visible shedding around the house or in the shower.
Hair thinning and hair loss in women is just one of many previously hush-hush beauty topics that are now openly discussed on TikTok, and rosemary oil is a big part of that discussion. But is it an effective treatment to help promote hair growth or just another online beauty gimmick?
Native to the Mediterranean region, rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) is part of the labiatae family of plants. Taken from the same plant as the herb used for seasoning, the oil is extracted from the leaves and is commonly used in fragrances, skin care, hair care and more. “Rosemary oil” for hair is a bit of a blanket term that could mean rosemary extract (considered the most potent of the lot), rosemary essential oil, or, often, a blend of the essential oil with a carrier oil. If you’re shopping for a hair product with rosemary oil in it, you’ll see “rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract” for the extract and “rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil” for the essential oil.
Are there benefits to using rosemary oil on the hair and scalp?
According to Han, rosemary oil is rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatories. “These compounds work by neutralizing free radicals, which can be damaging to the skin, hair and blood vessels.” This is especially helpful for the scalp as it’s constantly exposed to free radicals from UV and pollutants.
Research also shows that rosemary oil contains caffeic and rosmarinic acids, which help to stimulate blood circulation so that more oxygen and nutrients can make their way to the scalp. Ruggiero adds that the oil has antimicrobial and antifungal properties, so it may be beneficial to use if you have scalp irritation such as seborrheic dermatitis.
Does rosemary oil help with thinning hair?
Right now, there isn’t much clinical data to confirm whether rosemary oil increases hair growth. Han says that there’s some soft evidence that it could have a degree of validity for those suffering from hair loss, but she views rosemary oil more as an add-on treatment in a hair-loss regimen. “Rosemary oil is a great adjunct for those on pharmaceutical treatments, but also for those that want to start with something that’s likely going to be safe and well-tolerated.”
Ruggiero cautions against labelling it as a cure-all, as there are multiple factors that contribute to hair loss, with genetics sitting at the top of the list. “Hair, like skin, is a complicated tissue and it’s unique to everyone,” she says. “It’s counterproductive to look at a before and after of a person of a different age, background, hair type and genetic predisposition and expect the same results.” So, while the treatment does have some benefits for overall scalp health, its growth-boosting abilities are not a sure thing — at least not yet.
Who is rosemary oil best suited for?
Since rosemary oil is generally considered safe, Han says that most people have the green light to use it. (If you’re prone to sensitivity, be careful with undiluted essential oil, which can be irritating.) “As long as someone doesn’t have skin sensitivities or allergies to it, anyone suffering from pattern hair loss could be a candidate.” Ruggiero adds that the treatment should not be used during pregnancy or breastfeeding, or by children, or by anyone who has epilepsy as the camphor may worsen their condition. Do a patch test and wait 24 hours to check for any irritation before applying rosemary oil, as a best practice.
Just because the ingredient is trending on social media, that doesn’t mean it will work for everyone who has thinning hair. “Hair loss is a puzzle,” she says. “You need to identify what’s happening first before you reach a solution, not the other way around.” If you’re experiencing hair loss, she recommends setting up an appointment with a trichologist who will analyze your scalp to determine what treatments will be best for you.
How quickly will you see results when using rosemary oil?
Growing hair is not an overnight process, so even if your rosemary oil treatment is working, it’s going to take time before you see noticeable changes. Both experts say that typically, it takes six months to notice improvements to hair growth.
How does rosemary oil compare to other treatments for thinning hair?
“It’s naturally derived, so of course that’s part of the appeal, but there’s limited evidence showing it has clinically significant results in terms of growth,” says Ruggiero.
Han says it is likely less efficacious than prescription treatments such as finasteride or 5% minoxidil. “This is why I recommend it as an adjunct to prescription therapy or for those unwilling to go on a prescription product.”
Are there any side effects when using rosemary oil?
The oil has a good safety profile with minimal side effects, if any. Han says that an itchy scalp and irritation along with dandruff has been reported in a few cases.
As well, rosemary oil tends to be heavier in texture, so some people may not be fans of the feeling it leaves on the scalp or how it weighs down their hair.
How do I use rosemary oil on my hair?
Want to give it a shot? The experts have a few need-to-know tips for how to incorporate rosemary oil into your hair routine.
Make it step two
If you’re using other topical hair loss treatments, such as minoxidil, Han recommends using rosemary oil after these. “Because of its oil base, rosemary oil can limit penetration of the active ingredient in some medications [layered on top],” she says. Or space them out: Try applying rosemary oil in the evening, and then use your topical treatments in the morning for optimal absorption.
Stick to a schedule
“Since the evidence is sparse, it’s not known what exact dose and frequency rosemary oil should be used at,” says Han. She recommends applying an oil to the scalp one or two times a week and leaving it on overnight, or sudsing up every one to two days if you’re using a shampoo.
Find your formula
For any hair treatment, consistency is key, so you’ll want to find a formula that works with your hair type and schedule. Don’t have the time or patience to use an oil on your scalp? Opt for a shampoo and conditioner combo. Ruggiero says you can even DIY it and add two drops of rosemary oil into your go-to bottle of shampoo.
Massaging is a must
To really amp up the oil’s benefits, add in some massage. Whether you’re using your fingers or a massage tool, getting hands on will amp up blood circulation in the scalp, not to mention it feels nice and relieves stress. Apply rosemary oil to your scalp and gently massage it in using soft, circular motions.
Rosemary oil hair care products to shop now
The hair oil that started the rosemary craze, this bestseller contains a cocktail of ingredients designed to strengthen hair. Safe for use on all hair textures, it also contains biotin to help increase hair density.
Enriched with hydrating aloe, saw palmetto and rosemary oil to combat thinning and horsetail extract to strengthen strands, this shampoo gently clears away follicle-clogging buildup on the scalp and helps promote thicker, fuller hair.
Tea tree, rosemary and castor oils star in this soothing antioxidant-rich treatment. Created to calm and balance a dry, itchy scalp, it can be used as a pre-wash or overnight leave-on and won’t leave behind a greasy residue after rinsing.
Pair this silicone massage tool with your fave rosemary oil to help boost its benefits. Designed with an easy-to-grip handle and soft teeth, it’s safe to use on sensitive scalps and helps to evenly distribute any product.
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